A long-line is a lengthy leash for training dogs that features a standard clip at one end. It is important to distinguish this tool from another item it is frequently mistaken for: Unlike the retractable leash that moves in and out of a box, a long-line does not extend.
A leash intended for dog training, commonly known as a long-line or check cord in the US, remains a constant length and does not have the capability to automatically adjust. The term ‘check cord’ may be associated with ‘check chain/choke chain’, which can cause misunderstandings. Nonetheless, a check cord is simply an alternate name for a long-line and does not refer to a check chain/choke chain.
What are long dog training leads used for?
: Long-lines, or extended dog leads, possess diverse applications. The following are just a few instances.
- to practise recalls
- to provide you with more control whilst your dog is free-running
- for gundog training
- with a reactive dog
- for BAT set-ups (Behavior Adjustment Training)
Although we will examine them more closely later on, the fundamental benefit of using a long line while training your dog is that it enhances the effectiveness of your efforts. By prohibiting the dog from indulging in gratifying actions without your approval, such as ignoring your command to chase after butterflies, the long line accomplishes this.
What length dog training lead should I buy?
The ideal length of a long-line varies based on its intended use, which will be elaborated upon in the following text.
If your purpose is to employ the long-line for: – rehearsing calling back exercises – granting greater authority over your dog during off-leash running – conducting gundog training
Our recommendation would be to use a 10m long-line as anything shorter might not provide enough space for your dog to move around freely, while anything longer could be difficult for you to handle.
If you plan on utilizing the long-line for BAT setups (Behavior Adjustment Training) (refer to information below) when dealing with a reactive dog.
Then we recommend a 5m long-line. For these purposes, you want to be able to hold the whole leash in your hands, letting it out and taking it in as needed by the dog. Any shorter and your dog can’t move around freely enough. Any longer and you won’t be able to hold it all.
What is the best material for a long-line?
This is contingent on your intentions for its use.
If you plan on utilizing the long-line, it can serve various purposes such as practicing recalls, enhancing control while your dog is off-leash, and aiding in gundog training.
Our suggestion would be to use a biothane long-line, which is made of a waterproof and rubbery material. Unlike a nylon training lead, it does not absorb water and even mud easily falls off it.
The absence of fabric in Biothane dog training leads prevents them from developing unpleasant odors when stored in a bag or a vehicle. Moreover, as they do not get caught on twigs and branches as easily, they tend to follow the dog more efficiently. These leads can usually not be found in most physical pet stores and must be purchased online. The ones from Dog & Field are available in a flat shape.
Like this one from bio-leine, it can be rolled.
If you intend to use the long-line: – with a reactive dog – for BAT set-ups (Behavior Adjustment Training)
We suggest using a long-line made of climber’s rope or a similar material such as the rolled rope from Dog & Field or these other options. Another option would be a fabric long-line, but we recommend ordering a shorter length to prevent it from dragging on the ground and getting wet or stuck. Using a fabric long-line instead of a thick biothane line will allow for better communication and connection with your dog.
Long leash safety – using harnesses with long-lines
It’s important to utilize a harness while working with a long-line, as even short leads can be more comfortable for dogs when attached to a harness instead of a collar. However, with longer training leads, attaching them to a collar can lead to significant harm to a dog’s neck if the dog dashes several meters before quickly being halted.
It is preferable to attach a long lead to the back attachment of a harness with two points of attachment (chest and back) in order to prevent it from getting tangled in the dog’s legs and belly. This will allow the lead to flow off the back of the dog.
On rare occasions, owners of particularly robust dogs may feel the need to use a long leash attached to the chest for better control. While this may be acceptable when necessary, it is important to keep in mind that it is not the most desirable option and can interfere with the dog’s legs and cause irritation on the lower body if allowed to drag on the ground.
How do I use a long-line for recalls and training?
The long leash must remain attached to the dog until it becomes almost imperceptible and unnecessary. It should blend seamlessly with the dog’s body, appearing as if it is a natural extension that goes unnoticed.
Leaving the long-line off the dog occasionally may result in the dog disregarding commands and accessing rewards in the surrounding environment during those instances. However, the dog will not be able to do so when wearing the long-line, eventually comprehending its purpose and becoming long-line savvy. This will lead to a well-trained dog that obeys commands dutifully while wearing the long-line but may disregard them when off it. To prevent this, always use the long-line consistently, so the dog cannot differentiate between being on and off the long-line.
Don’t hold on to the training lead!
Avoid grasping the end of the extended tether, even in the presence of a grip. Instead, let the dog drag it along the floor. This way, the dog can experience greater liberty, simulating the sensation of being unrestrained. (This is an effective way to prepare for actual off-leash situations.)
You may have to grasp the line initially if your dog is accustomed to venturing beyond its length. When the dog reaches the limit, call her back. If you do this consistently when she gets close to the end of the line, she will get used to being closer to you, and you will change her usual range. After that, you can leave the line on the floor.
To be on the safe side, it’s advisable to grip the leash when passing through an area where there might be wildlife, other canines, or possible distractions.
BONUS: How to Train Dogs Who Are Not Food Motivated
Training a dog is usually easy as most dogs are willing to do any task in exchange for a treat, which is perceived as a reward. However, how can you train a dog that lacks food motivation?
Training a dog can be a challenging task particularly when the dog is not motivated to learn. To make them attentive and responsive, you need to find a way to captivate and stimulate their interest. If offering treats fails to yield results, you must find a different approach. Fortunately, there are alternative techniques and resources attainable to help you train your dog.
To delve into other forms of training motivation, it is crucial to comprehend the reason behind a dog’s initial lack of interest in food.
At times, a health problem may be the cause or maybe your dog is not fond of the type or brand of treats you are providing. Additionally, a dog owner who is not keen on using food as a training tool may be the reason behind a “not food motivated” dog. The primary initial step is to discover the root cause.
Although rare, there are dogs that favor lively activities, playthings or recognition from others more than food; however, these types of canines are typically not very numerous.
The Importance of Ruling Out Health Problems
On occasion, dogs may experience a phenomenon referred to as “conditioned taste aversion,” causing them to reject the offered food even if they had previously eaten it eagerly.
When this occurs, it is necessary to make an appointment with your veterinarian.
Aging can be a factor in conditioned taste aversion, which can affect dogs’ sense of smell and cause them to become finicky about what they eat.
Dog owners and trainers should examine medical conditions as a potential cause of a dog’s loss of appetite. This is especially important when the dog suddenly begins to refuse food. It is crucial to have your dog examined, as their stoic nature allows them to conceal their symptoms, making it difficult to determine what is wrong.
The Impact of Free-Feeding Dogs
Dogs who are provided with unrestricted access to food, also known as free-feeding, may occasionally lose their appetite and become finicky eaters. This is because the dogs are able to consume food at any time, as opposed to being fed at fixed intervals throughout the day. The constant availability of food may lead to a lack of interest in it among free-fed dogs.
High-value treats may be preferred by dogs that are free-fed due to their tastiness compared to their regular food. Alternatively, establishing a feeding schedule could be a solution. Factors such as age, breed, size, activity level, and overall health status of your dog determine the suitable meal schedule. With assistance from your veterinarian, you can determine the appropriate frequency and portion size for each meal.
The Problem of Misusing Treats
The food drive of some dogs can unintentionally diminish due to mishandling of treats by their owners. This frequently occurs when treats are employed incorrectly, such as enticing the dog into their crate despite their aversion to being left alone or tempting them with a treat before compelling them to take a bath. If the dog is coerced into a negative experience using treats, they will link treats with something alarming or uncomfortable and will shun them.
To prevent mishandling of treats, look for methods to make activities that your dog isn’t fond of, such as getting bathed or being caged, more enjoyable. Desensitization and counter conditioning are techniques frequently employed by dog trainers to accomplish this. Keep the treats delightful and pleasurable for your dog.
Dogs Being Too Distracted, Anxious or Overexcited
When your dog is uninterested in food during training sessions or walks, it may indicate excessive excitement or anxiety. This state is often referred to as being “over the threshold” by dog trainers. At such times, your pet’s emotions override their appetite, making it difficult for them to learn or engage in higher-level thinking.
It is common among both humans and animals. When a dog’s body enters fight or flight mode, blood circulation shifts from the digestive system to the dog’s limbs and sensory organs, preparing the dog for action.
It is important to keep dogs that are excessively enthusiastic away from things that set them off, as they become uneasy and must be taught to relax. There are several techniques for changing their conduct that can assist dogs in reducing their nervousness and responsiveness to environmental stimulants.
Your Dog Might be Tired or Confused
At times, a dog may struggle with training due to a lack of comprehension or fatigue. In such situations, the canine may decline food and resort to displacement actions like scratching, yawning, or sneezing. Providing smaller training steps, opportunities for rest, or reducing the duration of training sessions may benefit these dogs.
Your Dog May Be Afraid of Punishment
Dogs that have a submissive nature or those who have been reprimanded for taking food may avoid accepting treats by turning their head. It is important to teach these dogs that it is okay for them to eat food offered to them.
If your dog is not food motivated, try to determine the underlying cause. While you are working on finding the cause, use things your dog loves to reinforce desired behaviors, such as a favorite toy, ball, petting or praise. You may need to test to see if the things you are offering are truly valuable. Generally, if you see your dog getting better at performing the desired behavior, chances are you are doing something right. However, if the desired behavior is weakening you may not be using something valuable enough or there may be too many valuable competing reinforcers around your dog.
